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🔍 Wine's Decline Factors

In this week’s DECORKED digest you will read all about soil health, the industry’s decline, how to decode wine labels, the impact of Super Tuscan, new appellations, and much more. Keep reading!

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Happy Monday! We hope you have a great week. In this week’s DECORKED digest, you will read all about soil health, the industry’s decline, how to decode wine labels, the impact of Super Tuscan, new appellations, and much more. Keep reading!

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INTERESTING THIS WEEK

 📈 Georgian wine exports to the UK surge amid rising recognition READ HERE 

🗞 Napa Valley grape growers look to the next 50 years READ HERE 

💥 Top 10 wine-producing countries outside of Europe READ HERE

📝 Two jailed for Bordeaux grape-picking exploitation READ HERE

🍾 The best non-vintage Champagnes of 2024 READ HERE

🎤 Andrea Bocelli relaunches his wine brand READ HERE

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We curate, filter, and select only the most exciting and important news for you.

HOW DOES TILLAGE AFFECT VINEYARD SOIL BACTERIA?

Soil health is increasingly important in viticulture and regenerative agriculture, with new research illuminating the impact of vineyard management on soil bacterial communities. A recent study by Balázs Zoltán Besze and colleagues, published in Springer Link, examined bacterial roles in vine functions and compared tilled and no-tilled sections of a Hungarian vineyard using 16S rRNA gene sequencing. The study identified 41 bacterial species and found that tillage did not significantly alter bacterial communities, with water runoff and seasonal soil changes being more influential. The research also suggested that cover cropping could mitigate soil erosion and help maintain microbial diversity by reducing soil loss between vines.

WINE'S DECLINE MIRRORS POLITICAL CHANGE

The decline in wine consumption is primarily driven by growing income inequality and economic pressures rather than factors like healthier lifestyles or changing drinking habits. Historically, wine sales have correlated with the economic well-being of the middle class; when disposable income is higher, wine consumption increases. The recent downturn in wine consumption in countries like the UK, the US, and Australia coincides with periods of economic austerity and right-wing government policies that have widened the income gap. While high-end wines continue to thrive among wealthier consumers, the broader market struggles as many potential buyers have less disposable income. This economic disparity suggests that addressing income inequality could help revive wine sales more effectively than other proposed solutions.

Copyright BIBICh Winery

DEVASTATING WILDFIRES IN DALMATIA, CROATIA

The village of Plastovo, Croatia, home to the prominent Dalmatian winery Bibich, was struck by a devastating fire last week. While some of the Bibich family's vineyards and olive groves in Plastovo were destroyed, vineyards in other locations like Promina and Vaćani remained unharmed. Despite the high-speed fire damaging large parts of the vineyard, the winery and cellar were spared any consequences. The Bibich team worked hard to reopen the winery promptly, extending special thanks to the firefighters and volunteers who courageously battled the blaze.

THE EVOLUTION OF DOM PÉRIGNON IN ‘A NEW CLIMATIC ERA’

Chef de Cave Vincent Chaperon is leading significant changes at Dom Pérignon to adapt to climate change. The 2015 vintage, the hottest and driest on record, underscored the need for precise picking dates to maintain the complex style and longevity of Dom Pérignon wines. Chaperon emphasized careful vineyard management to balance ripeness with structure and introduced new winemaking methods, including separate vinification by climates and focusing on wine texture. He highlighted the shift from volume to quality, with experimental programs for resilient rootstocks and yeast. Despite challenges, Chaperon aims to uphold Dom Pérignon's high standards and hinted at future additions to the brand's range.

EASTER ISLAND JOINS THE WINE WORLD

Easter Island, known for its monumental statues, has been designated a wine appellation (Denominacion de Origen, DO) by the Chilean government, with wines produced there now bearing the Rapa Nui DO title. This move is part of broader efforts to expand Chile's wine regions, including the Chiloé DO in Patagonia. These new appellations, important for tourism, reflect the impact of climate change and pioneering efforts in viticulture. José Mingo, a key figure in Chilean wine, highlighted the goal of integrating islanders in winemaking and achieving the DO status. Additionally, 41 new grape varieties have been sanctioned for official use in Chilean wines.

HOW TO DECODE BUZZWORDS ON YOUR WINE BOTTLE

Wine buzzwords like "sustainability," "terroir," "low sulfur," and "natural wine" serve as entry points for consumers, but often lack clear definitions and can be misleading. While they help novices get into wine, they may flatten the context for enthusiasts and misrepresent practices. Experts like Eliza Dumais and John McCarroll note that buzzwords can either simplify understanding or obscure true meanings, as seen with terms like "sustainable" and "natural." Despite their vagueness, buzzwords can pique curiosity, encouraging deeper exploration into wine production practices. Ultimately, consumers are advised to investigate beyond buzzwords to grasp the complexities of wine.

‘HIGHLY SIGNIFICANT’ IMPACT ON WINE PRODUCTION FROM VOLCANIC ACTIVITY

New research published in the journal Climate of the Past reveals that volcanic activity significantly influences viticulture by affecting climate conditions such as temperature, precipitation, and aridity. Scientists from the University of Stockholm and the Bolin Centre for Climate Research studied the Moselle Valley, a historic wine-producing region. They found that volcanic eruptions from 1444-1786 led to climate cooling, which reduced wine production. Using tax records, ice core data, and tree-ring analysis, the researchers discovered a clear pattern of decreased wine yields following major volcanic events. They noted that while warmer and drier climates generally benefit grapevine growth, volcanic-induced cooling had a markedly negative impact on production, highlighting the need for further research into the climatic and biological effects on wine production.

HOW THE CULT OF SUPER TUSCANS IS EVOLVING

Marika Vida-Arnold, national fine wine brand ambassador, acknowledges the historical impact of Super Tuscans, like Sassicaia, in revolutionizing Italian wine. However, she suggests the term "Super Tuscan" feels outdated, as it implies superiority and is less relevant today. Originally created as a rebellion against strict DOC regulations, Super Tuscans allowed experimentation with international varietals and 100% Sangiovese. However, evolving market trends and climate conditions have shifted focus towards regional specificity and indigenous grapes, particularly Sangiovese, which is gaining recognition for its improved quality. The wine industry is now emphasizing regional uniqueness over broad categories like "Super Tuscan."

Copyright @ Wine Searcher

WINE REGION OF THE WEEK: MOLISE, ITALY

Molise, a mountainous region in south-central Italy, was designated a DOC in 1998 and is known for its historical winemaking that dates back to 500 BC. Despite its rich vinous history, it gained prominence as an independent wine region only in the late 20th century, distinguishing itself from the neighboring Abruzzo. Molise has three DOCs: Biferno, Pentro di Isernia, and Tintilia del Molise, with Biferno and Pentro di Isernia producing reds, whites, and rosés, and Tintilia del Molise focusing on a red blend of 95% Tintilia. The region’s diverse topography, including hillside vineyards and ample sunshine, supports its varied wine styles.

Copyright @ Cellar Tours

GRAPE OF THE WEEK: BOMBINO BIANCO

Bombino Bianco, a white grape predominantly grown in central and southeastern Italy, is valued more for its high yields than its flavor, earning it the nickname "Pagadebit" or "debt payer." It was widely used in bulk-produced wines during the 1960s and 1970s but has also been confused with other varieties such as Mostosa and Trebbiano d'Abruzzo. Despite its reputation for mediocre quality, Bombino Bianco can produce good-quality, subtly fragrant wine, particularly in Abruzzo, when growers focus on quality rather than just maximizing yield. The grape's close relative, Bombino Nero, was once thought to be a mutation but is now recognized as a distinct variety.

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