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In this week’s DECORKED digest, we explore the allure of old vines, strategies for by-the-glass programs, the US wine market’s struggles, the science of aging under screw caps, and whether natural wine still has a place in modern winemaking.
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Happy Monday! We hope you have a great week ahead. In this week’s DECORKED digest, we explore the allure of old vines, strategies for by-the-glass programs, the US wine market’s struggles, the science of aging under screw caps, and whether natural wine still has a place in modern winemaking. Keep reading!
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IS OLDER BETTER?
Old vines deliver history, resilience, and unique flavors, but consumer interest often lags behind their pedigree. Smaller yields, changing climates, and price limits challenge growers, yet these vines tell compelling stories of heritage, sustainability, and craft. For marketers and sommeliers, the real value lies in selling the “why” behind the wine, turning authenticity into a memorable experience that can command attention and sometimes, a premium.
AI ON THE WINE LIST
Artificial intelligence is creeping into fine dining, offering sommeliers tools for research, menu notes, staff education, and administrative tasks, but it cannot replicate the human touch. Wine directors report that AI helps streamline workflow and brainstorm ideas, yet personal storytelling, guest interaction, and the discovery of hidden producers remain irreplaceable. While AI can enhance efficiency behind the scenes, the heart of hospitality, as well as the experience of wine itself, remains profoundly human.
FOREST-BLENDED BARRELS: SPAIN’S SECRET WEAPON
Spanish winemakers are increasingly experimenting with “forest-blend” barrels, which combine wood from different forests to create bespoke vessels tailored to specific wines. Rather than simply sourcing barrels by forest type, coopers now blend wood to balance tannins, aroma, and structure, giving winemakers greater control over the final product. In Priorat, producers are using white barriques for Grenache to integrate oak subtly and maintain freshness. The trend reflects a broader shift in fine winemaking: close collaboration with coopers, attention to detail, and the pursuit of nuance, ensuring wines remain distinctive and expressive while responding to modern tastes.
OPTIMIZING BY-THE-GLASS WINE
A well-curated by-the-glass (BTG) program is a key touchpoint for restaurants, offering guests a taste of an establishment’s philosophy while driving revenue. Sommeliers emphasize balancing approachable, familiar wines with unique, smaller-production bottles, rotating selections thoughtfully to maintain interest without overwhelming staff or patrons. Strategic pricing can entice customers while supporting business goals. Careful pour sizes, selective swaps, and attention to venue scale help maximize both guest experience and profitability, allowing BTG programs to highlight lesser-known producers while reflecting the restaurant’s identity.
US WINE MARKET STRUGGLES
The US wine industry is in a downturn, with vineyard acreage being ripped out, unsold grapes left on vines, and excess wine inventory pressuring growers and producers. While sparkling, flavored, and private-label wines show some growth, traditional table wines continue to struggle. Recovery will depend on market stabilization, reduced supply, and renewed consumer demand, but many experts see further adjustment ahead before a meaningful rebound.
THE SCIENCE OF AGING WINE UNDER SCREW CAP
Screw caps, long associated with lower-end wines, are increasingly used for aging premium bottles, offering precise control over oxygen exposure. Unlike corks, which vary in permeability and can cause taint, screw caps (especially with Saran Tin or Saranex liners) allow winemakers to regulate oxygen transmission, impacting wine aroma, color, and maturation. Decades of research and practical trials show screw caps can age wines as well as, or better than, corks.
NATURAL WINE, AGAIN?
Natural wine started as a protest against industrialized winemaking, emphasizing organic or biodynamic grapes, native yeasts, and minimal intervention. Its early charm was rebellion, unpredictability, and authenticity. Over time, it has influenced mainstream wine culture, spreading ideas about sustainability, minimal additives, and artisanal storytelling. Today, experts argue we should move beyond the “natural” label, focusing instead on informed, low-intervention winemaking that balances purity, flavor, and human craftsmanship.
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WINE REGION OF THE WEEK: PAFOS, CYPRUS
Pafos, in southwestern Cyprus, is a small but historic wine region known for its terraced vineyards and Mediterranean climate. Indigenous red varieties like Maratheftiko and Xynisteri dominate, producing wines with bright fruit, soft tannins, and herbal notes. The region is gaining attention for age-worthy reds and elegant whites that reflect its unique terroir.
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GRAPE OF THE WEEK: MARATHEFTIKO
Maratheftiko is an ancient red grape indigenous to Cyprus, producing deeply colored wines with soft tannins, floral aromas, and notes of coffee and chocolate. It cannot self-pollinate, so yields are inconsistent. Maratheftiko responds well to oak aging and pairs beautifully with dishes like stewed rabbit, braised lamb, and stuffed eggplant.
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