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🌘 The dark side of wine

🌘 The dark side of wine

In this week’s DECORKED digest you will read all about the darker side of wine, indigenous wine producers, library wines, smart tanks, and much more. Keep reading!

October 15, 2023

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Happy Sunday! We hope you had a great week. This week we looked into the darker side of wine, as well as the industry’s struggles with staffing. On top of that, you can learn more about indigenous wine producers, library wines, smart tanks, and much more. Keep reading!

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INTERESTING THIS WEE

📈 Vineyards become the fastest growing crop in England READ HERE

🇮🇹 Why there’s optimism following difficult harvest in Italy READ HERE

🏞 California harvest: everything everywhere all at once READ HERE

🙇‍♂️Consumers find buying wine ‘a stressful experience’ READ HERE

❓Will ‘benchmark’ fine wines ever fall from grace? READ HERE

📈 The world's most expensive Proseccos READ HERE

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We curate, filter, and select only the most exciting and important news for you.

STAFF SHORTAGES CONTINUE TO BITE IN THE WINE TRADE

Nearly half of companies in the wine industry, particularly wine producers, have struggled with workforce shortages in the past two years, largely attributed to the cyclical demand for labor during critical phases like harvesting. According to data gathered for The ProWein Business Report 2022, a significant portion of businesses within the wine trade, including hotels (87%) and restaurants (66%), have also struggled to recruit staff. Comparatively, wholesalers, importers, distributors, and specialty wine retailers have experienced relatively lesser impact from labor shortages.

For wine producers, the most significant deficit exists in seasonal workers, particularly during harvest and vegetation periods, with severe shortages noted in regions such as Portugal, Spain, and California. Following seasonal labor, producers face challenges in hiring cellar workers, oenologists, and fillers. In response to these shortages, companies have resorted to measures such as increased overtime and extended working hours, resulting in a third of businesses failing to meet their quality or service objectives due to reduced staffing. Additionally, a quarter of wine companies have incurred higher costs by outsourcing operations to external service providers. In light of these challenges, 25% of wine businesses have raised wages to attract and retain both existing and new staff members.

CHAMPAGNE STRUGGLES

The Champagne region is currently facing significant challenges, extending beyond the difficulties brought about by a demanding growing season. The 2023 Champagne harvest has been one of the most difficult, marked by poor grape quality and several tragic incidents. Amidst the harvest, five individuals lost their lives, and authorities uncovered four sweatshops where laborers were enduring inhumane living conditions. Unfortunately, revelations about substandard working and housing environments are not new to Champagne. Concerns persist about the worsening labor shortage, intensified by the demanding and poorly compensated nature of grape picking work and the clash with students returning to school during the harvest season. The 2023 harvest faced additional challenges with rot issues, attributed to the combination of large bunches and high yield, complicated by unfavorable weather conditions. The absence of sorting tables in Champagne led to press loads containing an alarming percentage of rotten grapes, potentially compromising the quality of the wine produced. In summary, the 2023 Champagne harvest underscores the conflicting priorities within the region, emphasizing the importance of sustainable practices and humane working conditions over profit maximization. While the current situation appears bleak, there remains hope that the industry will learn from past mistakes and prioritize a more balanced approach for the future.

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VINTAGE CRIME: THE DARKER SIDE OF WINE

Rebecca Gibb, a renowned Master of Wine, dives into the intriguing realm of wine crime, shedding light on her fascination with the topic ahead of the release of her latest book, "Vintage Crime: A Short History of Wine Fraud." While wine has long been associated with idyllic vineyards and a sense of authenticity, Gibb reveals that its history also encompasses a darker side. For centuries, individuals, predominantly driven by financial motives, have tampered with wine production to improve its taste and market value, blurring the line between enhancement and deception. Although contemporary wine production practices have reduced the incentives for fraudulent manipulations, the landscape of wine fraud has evolved, particularly with the rise of so-called investment-grade wines. Gibb underscores the allure of stories featuring cunning fraudsters, from those orchestrating elaborate Ponzi schemes to dealers passing off inferior wines as prestigious labels. She emphasizes the subjective nature of wine crime, citing instances where the modification of wines was favored by some connoisseurs seeking to enhance the flavor of their preferred blends. In essence, Gibb's exploration of wine crime serves as a reminder that the industry's allure is not devoid of deceit and manipulation, adding a layer of complexity to the romanticized narrative often associated with winemaking.

NATIVE AMERICAN TERROIR: TRIBES RECLAIM LAND WITH VINES AND WINERIES

Indigenous vintners in North America are actively venturing into winemaking, not just as a commercial pursuit but as a means to secure the future of their communities while advocating for sustainable practices. Their profound connection to their ancestral farming methods and reverence for the environment is evident in their approach. For instance, the Yocha Dehe Wintun Nation's winery in California's Capay Valley signifies their commitment to diversifying their economic interests while maintaining stewardship over their homeland. Similarly, Tara Gomez's Camins 2 Dreams winery in the Sta. Rita Hills appellation exemplifies the Santa Ynez Band of Chumash Indians' dedication to reclaiming their land and preserving their viticultural heritage. Additionally, the Twisted Cedar winery, managed by the Cedar Band of Paiute Indians in Utah, showcases their emphasis on sustainable farming practices and respect for the land. These endeavors not only symbolize the growing presence of indigenous winemakers in the industry but also underscore their cultural identity and commitment to environmental sustainability.

ARE LIBRARY WINES WORTH THE INVESTMENT?

The practice of selling aged wines after their initial vintage release is a subject of considerable discussion among producers, wholesalers, and buyers. While back-vintage wines provide intriguing experiences, the decision to withhold a portion of a vintage for future release poses both financial and logistical challenges for all parties involved. Despite the obstacles, the inherent value that aged wines bring to the table has motivated wineries and distributors to reserve bottles, enticing restaurant and retail buyers to feature them. For many winemakers, the primary motivation lies in presenting the wine's prolonged aging potential without the need for extensive waiting periods. Additionally, setting aside a fraction of each vintage for later release serves as a vital tool for winemakers to monitor the development of vineyards and wines over time, aiding in the refinement of their craft. While the costs associated with maintaining a library inventory are significant, they are perceived as an ongoing investment. Despite the financial constraints faced by suppliers, the increased price of library releases reflects the added premium for preserving stock. Ultimately, showcasing the capability to produce wines that evolve gracefully over time is emblematic of a distinguished winery, encouraging buyers to recognize the value of investing in these wines for their own cellars.

THE ANCIENT WINE REFRIGERATORS OF THE ROMAN SOLDIERS

Archaeologists excavating along the Danube have uncovered embedded ceramic structures employed to regulate the temperature of grape juice during the summer, dating back to Roman occupation in present-day northern Bulgaria. Amidst facing multiple uprisings, Roman soldiers stationed in the region managed to maintain a cool environment for their wine using a 2,000-year-old ceramic structure believed to have stored both wine and perishable food. The discovery, the second of its kind at the former fortress of the archaeological site of Novae, built during the first century AD to suppress the Thracian revolt, offers valuable insights into the soldiers' lifestyle. Piotr Dyczek, an archaeologist from the University of Warsaw, has been leading a long-term excavation project, utilizing information gleaned from wine-drinking vessels, bowls, and animal bones to reconstruct the soldiers' dietary habits and last meal.

TRENDS: SMART TANKS

Bodegas Tobía, located in the scenic town of Cuzcurrita del Río Tirón in Rioja Alta, implemented 'intelligent' fermentation tanks in 2003, heralding a technical transformation in Rioja’s winemaking. Despite the higher initial costs, this innovative approach leads to a decrease in production expenses, thereby enhancing the winery's profitability in the long term. The patented 'smart tanks' utilize the natural CO2 produced during fermentation to facilitate a gentle and efficient extraction process, resulting in wines with heightened aroma and color. This pioneering technique has garnered attention from winemakers in Alsace and the Dordogne, who have recently adopted similar Ganimede fermentation tanks. Additionally, the CO2-rich environment minimizes microbiological risks and enables fully automated cycles, reducing the dependence on labor. Notably, wines produced in these tanks are renowned for their remarkable smoothness, enabling quicker readiness for consumption, even immediately post-fermentation. Consequently, this expeditious process allows producers to swiftly transport their wines to market, giving them a competitive advantage.

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WINE REGION OF THE WEEK: CORNWALL, UNITED KINGDOM

At the tip of southwest England, Cornwall boasts a small number of wineries that make the most of the moderating influence of the sea that almost surrounds the county. Although not home to a substantial number of vineyards, the county boasts one of the UK's better-known wineries, Camel Valley, alongside a number of smaller outfits. It covers the very western tip of a peninsula in southwest England that starts at Bristol, South Gloucester, and Dorset, to the east and runs west covering Somerset and Devon. Similar to neighboring Devon, Cornwall's climate is predominantly maritime and hugely influenced by the Atlantic Ocean to the west. A cool climate limits the choice of grape varieties and, in general, wine production is limited to hardy hybrid varieties often found in southern England. Camel Valley Vineyard, named after the Camel River valley in which it is situated, is Cornwall's best-known wine producer, predominantly known for its sparkling wines. The company has a royal warrant as purveyors of English sparkling wines to HRH The Prince of Wales. As well as its range of sparkling wines, Camel Valley also produces a number of still whites (from the likes of Bacchus) and a Pinot Noir rosé.

GRAPE OF THE WEEK: ORTEGA

Ortega is a German grape variety developed in 1948 by crossing Müller-Thurgau and Siegerrebe. It has now spread from its homeland in the Pfalz and Mosel regions to other cool-climate winegrowing areas, such as England and western Canada. It is used in both varietal and blended wines and shares organoleptic similarities with Muscat, displaying grapey aromas and overt floral scents allied with a generally low level of acidity. What Ortega lacks in acidity, however, it makes up for in sugar levels, thus making it a good choice for cool-climate regions. Here, flabbiness is easily avoided, and a hardiness to the cold means it can withstand tough winters. While unwanted Botrytis can sometimes be a problem, Ortega is resistant to mildew. One of Ortega's main roles in German wines is to supplement Riesling in poor vintages, bringing some sweetness and body to wines that are otherwise lacking.

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