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⚔️ Wine's biggest enemy

⚔️ Wine's biggest enemy

In this week’s DECORKED digest you will read all about new wine heists, industry’s biggest threat, how dosage affects Champagne, Sardinia’s wines, and much more. Keep reading!

December 03, 2023

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Happy Sunday! We hope you’ve had a wonderful week! In this week’s issue, you will find all about new wine heists, industry’s biggest threat, how dosage affects Champagne, Sardinia’s wines, and much more. Keep reading!

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INTERESTING THIS WEEK

🗺 Harvest 2023 unveils Sicilian wines with a strong identity READ HERE

📈 The major factors driving up the prices of US wine READ HERE

🇫🇷 Concern about minimum unit pricing in France READ HERE

🍷 What top wine pros are drinking: New York City READ HERE

🍇 Chile abandoning vineyards as sales decline READ HERE

🇬🇪 60 Minutes visits Georgia: Wine's birthplace READ HERE

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We curate, filter, and select only the most exciting and important news for you.

LOS ANGELES WINERIES RELEASE BOTTLING FROM 18TH CENTURY VINE

Los Angeles wineries collaborated to produce a limited-edition wine called Angelica from the grapes of the historic Ramona vine, the oldest-producing vine in the US. Planted in the 1770s at Mission San Gabriel, the vine was cared for by the winemakers at Angeleno Wine Company, resulting in a unique wine aged in French oak for three years. The project, aimed at reviving LA's winemaking history, involved using the Solera system to blend juices from 2020 to 2023 vintages. Only 336 bottles of Angelica were released, marking a historic moment in winemaking according to the owners.

WINE’S WORST ENEMY

Felicity Carter, co-founder of Business of Drinks and a wine journalist, addressed the 2023 Wine Industry IMPACT Conference, urging wine producers to counter the World Health Organization's (WHO) claim from the previous year that there is 'no safe limit' for alcohol consumption. Carter expressed concern about the WHO's assertion that alcohol causes cancer and the pressure on the EU to revise guidelines. She highlighted the difficulty in delivering a clear counterargument due to the complex messaging around wine's health effects. Carter emphasized the challenge of promoting a nuanced position on drinking compared to a straightforward 'don't drink' message. She suggested changing consumers' perceptions of wine as a category to make it more accessible and appealing to a broader audience as a potential strategy to address the issue.

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THE HOT NEW HEIST: STEALING WINE?

The wine world is witnessing a surge in illicit activities where individuals exploit the combination of limited supply and growing demand. This trend, reminiscent of heists associated with jewels or art, involves buying salvage stock and selling it at premium prices to unsuspecting customers, often with deceptive labels. A recent example is the Lincoln Fine Wines robbery, following a familiar pattern. Meanwhile, the iconic retailer Sherry-Lehmann faced FBI raids and ongoing investigations amid lawsuits alleging payments for undelivered rare wines. This trend of extravagant spending on wine is relatively recent and has raised concerns about unregulated and untaxed sales, impacting even non-drinkers. The perfect example is the infamous wine collector Rudy Kurniawan, mentioned in an earlier DECORKED issue, who spent millions in the early 2000s, contributing to one of the largest wine frauds.

‘HUNDREDS OF MILLIONS’ OF WINE LABELS TO BE DESTROYED

The Comité Européen des Entreprises Vins (CEEV) warns that new European Commission guidelines on wine bottle labeling may lead to the destruction of numerous already printed labels. Regulation (EU) 2021/2117, effective from December 8, requires wines to display ingredients and nutritional information, with producers permitted to use QR codes. However, last-minute guidelines insist the QR code must be labeled 'ingredients,' not just indicated by an 'i' symbol. CEEV, representing the EU's wine industry, criticizes this change, and EU member states, including major producers, have expressed disapproval. CEEV emphasizes the wine sector's commitment to accurate consumer information and seeks recognition for its unique labeling regime.

THE COMPLEX ROLE OF DOSAGE IN SPARKLING WINE

The dosage in sparkling wine production, expressed in grams of sugar per liter, is often misunderstood as a measure of sweetness. However, experts, including Peter Liem, argue that dosage is about achieving harmony rather than sweetness. While it serves the practical purpose of replenishing wine lost during disgorgement, it also provides winemakers with a crucial opportunity to adjust the sensory profile of the wine. Despite its apparent simplicity, the dosage is a complex step in winemaking, involving a blend of wine and sugar or grape must, with various options impacting the final wine differently. The type of sugar used, its amount, and the inclusion of additives offer a range of choices. In Champagne, cane and beet sugar, both made of sucrose and locally grown, are commonly used. The emphasis is on achieving balance and harmony, with dosage being a nuanced balancing act of components to enhance and amplify flavors, making the wine more expressive and complete.

EXPLORING SARDINIAN WINES

Sardinian wine has been slower to gain popularity compared to Southern Italy and Sicily. While coastal areas, particularly Gallura, are known for Vermentino, the high-altitude vineyards in Mandrolisai are now emerging. Over the last 20 years, the number of wineries in Mandrolisai has increased from a handful to around 30, producing about 13,000 cases annually. The region's well-balanced red blends, often considered bargains, must meet Mandrolisai DOC criteria, including a traditional mix of Bovale Sardo, Cannonau, and Monica grapes. Despite past neglect, the younger generation recognizes the untapped potential and natural strength of the area, emphasizing its untouched nature and connection to the environment.

TRENDS: SHEEP EMPLOYMENT

The role of a shepherd is making a surprising comeback in wineries as more of them adopt sustainable and regenerative farming practices by introducing sheep into their vineyards. La Crema Winery in Sonoma County takes this a step further by using special Dorper sheep from South Africa as a unique tourist attraction. The sheep, along with a flock of chickens, are part of a vineyard sustainability tour, educating visitors about regenerative farming. The Dorper sheep, disinterested in eating grapes, serve as ideal vineyard weed control. La Crema's approach incorporates sustainable and organic farming practices, utilizing cover crops, compost, and animals to manage weeds, and pests, and provide natural fertilizer.

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WINE REGION OF THE WEEK: ZAGORJE, CROATIA

Bregovita Hrvatska, also known as the Croatian Uplands, is located in the northwest of the Slavic country. The region is responsible for approximately 20 percent of all the wine production and vineyards cultivated in Croatia. The cool climate here has very cold winter temperatures with snowfall common throughout the winter months. Vineyards are planted up to 120 meters (393 feet) above sea level among the undulating landscape - Bregovita Hrvatska literally translates to "mountainous Croatia". The slopes prevent cool air from settling among the vines which is crucial throughout the spring when budburst occurs. White grapes varieties are predominately cultivated here, with Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, and Chardonnay among the most popular. Indigenous varieties such as Pušipel, Kraljevina, and Škrlet are also found planted which are important monuments to the centuries of vine cultivation in the area. Grapes have been growing in Croatia since as early as the 5th Century BC.

GRAPE OF THE WEEK: PINOT BLANC

Pinot Blanc is a versatile white-wine grape variety used in the production of still, sparkling, and sweet dessert wines. It is well-traveled, producing delicate white wines in Italy and Alsace to luxurious Trockenbeerenauslese in Austria and icewine in Canada. The variety is often regarded as Chardonnay's understudy as it has a similar medium to full-bodied style of wine with good acidity, and responds well to oak maturation. Pinot Blanc's varietal characters include apple and almond, and sometimes a touch of smokiness, although – like Chardonnay – it is a palette for winemaker intervention, and flavors often depend on style. Pinot Blanc is a white mutation of Pinot Noir, with a smaller concentration of anthocyanins. In the vineyard, it is a relatively fruitful variety giving reliable yields each growing season. Bunches of Pinot Blanc are tightly packed clusters creating vulnerability to various mildew diseases. Pinot Blanc's spiritual home is arguably Alsace, where it is overshadowed somewhat by the region's undoubted stars, Riesling and Gewurztraminer. Pinot Blanc wines from the region are typified by almond aromas, with a hint of spice.

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