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Happy Monday! We hope you have a great week. In this week’s DECORKED digest, you will read all about the effects of climate change on Australian wines, geographical indications, bulk wine import results, a Champagne producer jailed, and much more. Keep reading!

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INTERESTING THIS WEEK

📝 Orange wine sales are spiking — here’s why it’s on summer menus everywhere READ HERE 

🎤 Does singer Taylor Swift impact wine sales trends? READ HERE 

📈 The best value Cabernet Sauvignons of 2024 READ HERE

🍷 Australian Vintage sells Barossa vineyard READ HERE

💥 Spanish bulk wine under fire from EU READ HERE

🚓 Police swoop in Italian wine fraud READ HERE

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IS AUSTRALIAN RED WINE BECOMING MORE ALCOHOLIC BECAUSE OF CLIMATE CHANGE?

The alcohol content in wines, particularly in warmer regions like Rutherglen, Barossa Valley, and McLaren Vale, is increasing, with some wines naturally reaching up to 17% alcohol. This rise is due to higher ambient temperatures causing grapes to accumulate sugar faster than they achieve physiological ripeness, leading winemakers to harvest later. However, some wineries manage to produce balanced wines with lower alcohol content through specific vineyard practices, such as biodynamic farming. Historical changes in fermentation methods, such as the shift from open-top to closed-top fermenters and the use of refrigeration, also affect alcohol levels. Despite the trend, there is no legal limit on alcohol content in wines.

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DISGRACED CHAMPAGNE PRODUCER JAILED

Didier Chopin, a Champagne producer accused of selling 1.8 million bottles of fake Champagne produced from carbonated wine from Spain and the Ardèche, has been jailed in Morocco for financial crimes. Chopin moved to Rabat in September 2023, where he invested in a restaurant and founded a fraudulent fruit and vegetable company. Additionally, he faces numerous fraud and sexual assault charges in France, with allegations from former employees dating back to 2006. Despite being summoned to face charges in France, Chopin missed his arraignment due to his incarceration in Morocco for writing fraudulent checks. His assets in France have been liquidated, leaving significant liabilities, and he is expected to be summoned again once released.

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WHY WINEMAKERS ARE ABANDONING GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS

Geographical indications (GIs) have historically helped consumers identify the origin and quality of wines, with stringent regulations often seen as indicators of superior terroir expression. However, this binary view is losing relevance as many winemakers now opt for greater creative freedom outside GI constraints. Producers like Anthony Aubert and Lisa Anselmi favor focusing on grape variety and personalized winemaking over adherence to complex GI rules, which often confuse consumers. Despite challenges, especially for newer wineries, abandoning GIs allows for direct consumer engagement and brand identity control, exemplified by the success of high-end, non-GI wines like Loic Pasquet’s Liber Pater. This shift underscores the growing importance of branding over traditional appellations in today's diverse wine market.

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2023 BULK WINE IMPORTS SLOWED, BUT TRADE SEEMS TO BE RALLYING

In 2023, the global bulk wine market faced significant challenges, with most major importer countries experiencing declines in volume and value, reflecting broader consumer patterns. Germany was an exception, increasing bulk wine imports by 5%. The UK showed a preference for New World suppliers, notably Australia, while France relied heavily on Spain for its bulk imports. The US and China saw notable drops, with China's imports falling sharply by 18% in volume. Despite these declines, there are positive signs for 2024, including increased activity in the global bulk wine market, a balance in the supply-demand of generic white wines, and the lifting of tariffs on Australian wines by China. These factors may boost buyer confidence and create opportunities for brand development and innovation in the bulk wine sector.

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ALCOHOL LEVELS MATTER IN ROSÉ—HERE’S WHY

In the contemporary wine landscape, rosé is celebrated for its fresh, lower-alcohol styles, distinguishing it from many reds and some whites. While some winemakers believe rosé should inherently have higher acidity and lower alcohol, others argue that its alcohol level should not be reduced merely to fit a certain profile. The key determinant of a rosé's alcohol content is the timing of the grape harvest, not the winemaking process. Many winemakers find that harvesting grapes early for acidity can lead to unbalanced, underripe wines, whereas later harvests produce more balanced, flavorful rosés. Despite this, some producers achieve excellent low-alcohol rosés through various methods, including choosing specific grape parcels or managing yields. Ultimately, the quality of rosé isn't solely defined by its alcohol level; rather, it involves a balance of ripeness, acidity, and overall vineyard management, with consumer preferences and market pressures also playing significant roles.

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WOMEN IN DRINKS CREATE FIRST-OF-ITS-KIND NETWORK

Female leaders in the drinks trade have launched "Raising The Glass," a business network aimed at promoting inclusivity for women. Created by Rebecca Oliver-Mooney, head of commercial drinks at Co-op, this free subscriber network is open to women and allies in all drinks categories, both on and off-trade. The initiative includes quarterly in-person events for networking, mentorship, and engagement. Oliver-Mooney, who identified a gap in the industry for supporting female talent, has received backing from prominent figures such as the co-founders of Double Dutch and Warner’s Distillery. The network also features a podcast discussing industry challenges and successes with honesty and humor.

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CALIFORNIA FACES THE GRAPE APOCALYPSE

The California wine industry faces a severe crisis as wine sales slump, leading to abandoned vineyards and difficult decisions for growers without contracts. Natalie Collins of the California Association of Winegrape Growers and John Hughes of H&H Brokerage highlight the growing number of untended vineyards due to the inability to sell grapes or bulk wine. Even major producers like Gallo have cut production to reduce costs. The decline in sales, down 4.4%, affects almost all wine types, with rosé falling the fastest. Despite a potential benefit from reduced crop sizes due to hot weather, the overall market remains troubled, making it hard for new brands and young winemakers to find opportunities. Low prices for bulk wine, as low as 75 cents per gallon, are unsustainable for growers, and the structural imbalance of planting more red grapes than white, combined with a collapsed almond market, leaves few alternatives. The situation may improve as the industry finishes destocking, but the current outlook is grim.

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WINE REGION OF THE WEEK: LA PAMPA, ARGENTINA

La Pampa, a wine region in northern Patagonia, Argentina, is characterized by its grasslands and sparse vineyard area, primarily used for livestock farming and horticulture. Located west of Buenos Aires, its viticulture is concentrated in the southwestern end near the Río Colorado, with production centered around Venticinco de Mayo. Few producers operate here, with Bodega del Desierto being the most notable. The region, still developing its identity, predominantly grows Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir, covering just under 280 hectares.

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GRAPE OF THE WEEK: KERNER

Kerner is a widely grown white grape variety in Germany, first bred in Württemberg in 1929 by crossing Riesling and Trollinger, and named after poet Justinus Kerner. Used in blends like Liebfraumilch and varietal wines, it displays apple, pear, and citrus notes, with occasional stonefruit hints. Despite its dark-skinned parent, Kerner is unmistakably a white grape, sharing high acidity and aging potential with Riesling, though it lacks Riesling's flavor and textural finesse. Favored by growers for its adaptability, high yield, and late budding, Kerner thrives in Pfalz and Rheinhessen and is also cultivated in Alto Adige, Austria, Switzerland, England, Canada, and Japan.

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