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💣 French Wine Wars

💣 French Wine Wars

In this week’s DECORKED digest you will read all about a huge Penfolds smuggle, Prosecco name changes, ‘Josh’ wine memes, new labelling rules, AI trends, and much more. Keep reading!

January 22, 2024

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Happy Monday! We hope you have a great week ahead. In this week’s Decorked digest, you will read all about a huge Penfolds smuggle, Prosecco name changes, ‘Josh’ wine memes, new labelling rules, AI trends, and much more. Keep reading!

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INTERESTING THIS WEEK

📝 Removing the largest serving sizes of wine decreases alcohol consumption READ HERE

📈 Making non-alcoholic wine will never be easy. Can momentum carry it forward? READ HERE

🫧 Cleaning with vinegar is the key to keeping wine glasses crystal clear READ HERE

🧧 How does Lunar New Year impact the secondary wine market? READ HERE

📲 How AI could help you choose a new favorite wine READ HERE

💸 26 most expensive alcoholic drinks in the world READ HERE

Collection of partnerships and collaborations.

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We curate, filter, and select only the most exciting and important news for you.

ROBOTS IN THE VINEYARDS: COULD AI BE A GREEN WINEMAKING ALLY?

Researchers at Oregon State University have developed an AI-powered robot, the "Pied Piper," to combat vineyard pests such as treehoppers and stink bugs without resorting to chemicals. The robot utilizes harmonic vibrations to disrupt the mating behavior of pests and is currently being tested at Stag Hollow, a winery committed to sustainable and biodynamic farming. The aim is to address the spread of the grapevine red blotch virus carried by treehoppers, which can severely impact vineyards. The innovative approach of using vibration mating disruption (VMD) aims to eliminate the need for pesticides. The owner and winemaker at Stag Hollow, Mark Huff, sees the device as a promising addition to his vineyards, and the researchers anticipate that the findings will contribute to the development of sustainable pest management practices, as detailed in their 2023 conference publication.

PROSECCO BY ANY OTHER NAME

In the competitive market of sparkling wines, the Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG faces the challenge of maintaining consumer interest. The key factors for success include a pronounceable name, a touch of sweetness, attractive packaging, an affordable price, and a measure of bubbles. Prosecco, known for its easy pronunciation and accessibility, has experienced significant popularity over the past three decades, but overall growth has slowed in recent years. The Prosecco Superiore DOCG, governed by stricter production rules since 2009, must come from the designated area between Valdobbiadene and Conegliano. There is an ongoing discussion within the industry about choosing a single name for the wine, with 'Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG' being a leading contender. Despite the high quality associated with Prosecco Superiore, prices remain relatively affordable, with few examples exceeding $35 according to the most-searched-for list.

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OVER 4000 SMUGGLED PENFOLDS SEIZED IN SHENZHEN

As the Chinese New Year approaches, there is an increase in border crossings between tax-free Hong Kong and mainland China, leading to a surge in illegal wine smuggling. On January 6, customs authorities in Shenzhen's Dapeng District seized over 4,000 bottles of Penfolds wine, falsely declared under the name "Jubilee of Moon Centenarian Old Vine Wine." The authorities became suspicious at the cargo checkpoint and discovered the smuggling upon examining the importation documents. The seized wines included 3,096 bottles of Penfolds BIN 28 and 972 bottles of Penfolds BIN 407. China's high tariffs of up to 218% on Australian wine have significantly reduced exports from around AU$1.2 billion annually to just AU$8 million. Despite this, Penfolds, the most recognized Australian wine brand in China, remains in high demand, fueling illegal cross-border smuggling activities.

WINE LEAVES A BAD TASTE FOR YOUNGER DRINKERS

The wine industry is facing challenges as younger generations exhibit less interest in wine due to taste preferences. The State of the Industry report notes concerns about an aging consumer base, with Baby Boomers being the main enthusiasts. Restrictions on promoting the health benefits of wine contribute to industry challenges. Overplanting of grapes, especially in the US, is also impacting grape growers negatively. Despite a tough 2023, there's a predicted modest rebound in direct-to-consumer sales in 2024. Moreover, cannabis is emerging as yet another potential threat to the wine industry. Wine buying among 21-30-year-olds has significantly declined, attributed to a dislike of the taste rather than the price. Analysts stress the need for collaboration to make wine more appealing to the next generation, as everyone seems to be waiting for the “next big thing” in wine.

LABELLING LAWS ANOTHER CHALLENGE FOR WINE

The wine industry faced numerous challenges last year, including climate change and declining interest from collectors and young consumers. In the EU, a new law requires wines produced or imported after December 8, 2023, to display ingredient, allergy, and nutritional information. A similar change has been proposed in the US, mandating standardized labeling on alcoholic beverages. The labels aim for transparency but may reveal details some wish to keep private. The ongoing debate centers on the perceived stringency of the laws. The effectiveness of these changes may hinge on how actively consumers seek out this information, akin to calorie counts on menus. The label laws will never be relaxed or strict enough to truly please many people, and it seems the off-label and slow-mo implementation is the kind of semi-win, semi-lose compromise that both sides will continue to fume and fret over.

BOMB BLOWS UP FRENCH WINE WAR

Tensions between French wine producers and Spanish importers have heightened, leading to violence in the south of France. Last week, Spain allocated €45.8 million ($49.8m) to boost advertising for its wine regions abroad, with Castilla y León receiving €8.9 million. The conflict escalated when a bomb, attributed to the French winegrower group Comité d'Action Viticole (CAV), exploded in a government building in Carcassonne. Another incident involved bomb threats at the Oenoterra négoce operation near Béziers, warning against price-related issues. The acts, reminiscent of past volatile actions, are linked to the National Federation of the Union of Agricultural Operators (FNSEA), marking a troubling turn in the dispute between French and Spanish wine interests.

JOSH CELLARS WINE MEME EXPLAINED: WHY AMERICA IS OBSESSED WITH THIS CHEAP, GOOFY WINE

A divisive topic in America revolves around Josh Cellars, a cost-effective drugstore wine ranging from $12 to $25, covering popular varietals like Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. Despite being widely available in stores like Target or CVS, Josh Cellars has gained attention through mildly sarcastic memes, particularly mocking its simple label with just the name "Josh" in frilly cursive. Even though the brand didn't enjoy the best reputation among amateur sommeliers, the introduction of memes on January 6 has brought a shift in perception. Wine Spectator's senior editor, James Molesworth, notes that Josh Cellars typically falls within the good-to-very-good range. Embracing the online buzz, Josh Cellars has responded with its own memes on Instagram, acknowledging its newfound reputation on the internet.

WINE REGION OF THE WEEK: UMBRIA, ITALY

Umbria, in central Italy, is a region of lush rolling hills, hilltop villages, and iconic, historic towns. At the very heart of the Italian Peninsula, it is surrounded by Tuscany, Marche, and Lazio and is in fact, the only Italian region without a coastline or international border. The region is famous for the historic wine-producing towns of Orvieto where a majority of the vineyards and wine production occurs. The wine industry has a long history here and is therefore heavily engrained in the local culture and economy. Umbria, like Marche and Lazio, is best known for its white wine production. Despite changes in style over time, the Orvieto DOC (based on the Trebbiano grape variety) remains the region's largest appellation. It accounts for over ten percent of the overall Umbrian wine production. Styles of Orvieto can vary from dry (Secco) through to semi-sweet (Amabile) and sweet wines. Grechetto is the next most prominent white variety. It plays a supporting role in Orvieto and various other Bianco bottlings in the region. But most of the other white wine DOCs here – including Colli Martani and Amelia – also allow for varietal bottlings of Grechetto. The climate of Umbria is similar to that of Tuscany in that it is distinctly Mediterranean. It experiences cold, rainy winters and dry summers with abundant sunshine to ripen wine grapes.

GRAPE OF THE WEEK: GRECHETTO

Grechetto refers to two distinct grape varieties, Grechetto di Orvieto and Grechetto di Todi. Both are grown extensively in Umbria and Emilia-Romagna. The two are often confused, and both are often described by growers, winemakers, and retailers simply as Grechetto. They are also frequently blended. Wines from Grechetto di Orvieto alone tend to be light-bodied and high in acidity. The Grechetto di Todi variety is generally considered superior. Grechetto Rosso (or Greghetto Rosso), a fairly obscure variety in Lazio, seems to be distinct from both of these varieties. Though it has not been proven by DNA studies, some experts have suggested it is a biotype of Sangiovese. Grechetto di Todi has traditionally been known as Pignoletto in Emilia Romagna. Ironically, this name cannot now be used to help clarify matters to some degree. This is because the term is now being attached to the geographic Pignoletto DOC where the grape is now referred to as Grechetto.

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