💥 France is Uprooting Vines

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Happy Monday! We hope you have a great week. In this week’s DECORKED digest, you will read all about France’s new scheme, the production of Cava, market recovery, new organic wine regulations, heat stress in grapevines, and much more. Keep reading!

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HARVEST UPDATE - EUROPE, SEPTEMBER 2024

In Southern France, August temperatures were high but less extreme than in recent years, helping white grapes ripen, though yields are lighter, with some regions seeing severe drought-related shortfalls. The national crop is projected at 39.3 million hectolitres, 18% lower than in 2023. In Spain, despite mid-August heatwaves in Castilla-La Mancha, timely rain boosted grape juice content, and a good crop is expected. Italy faced challenges like extreme heat and drought, leading to lower-than-average crop estimates, with Sicily hit hardest by a 30-35% shortfall.

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ORGANIC WINE FACES PUNISHING NEW RULE

A new USDA regulation requires wine importers, in addition to vineyards and wineries, to be certified organic to sell organic wine in the US, despite importers not handling the wine. This has caused delays due to bureaucratic backlogs, leaving uncertified importers at risk of penalties. The rule, criticized as unnecessary and burdensome, threatens the availability of imported organic wines and could discourage wineries from maintaining their organic certification. Lawmakers are pushing for an extension, but many argue the rule should be dropped altogether as it benefits no one and could increase costs for organic wine.

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POSITIVE TRENDS IN SIGHT FOR WINE, BUT POSITIVE MESSAGING IS NEEDED

The U.S. wine market shows signs of recovery, but needs better messaging to boost demand, says Jon Moramarco of the Gomberg, Fredrikson Report. High carrying costs and reduced inventories have slowed wine shipments, with smaller wineries deferring taxes by bottling under bond. While tax-paid shipments are down, consumer spending on wine remains stable. The industry faces challenges from a diverse consumer base, anti-alcohol campaigns, and competition from other drinks. Moramarco stresses the need for collective efforts to make wine more appealing to consumers and retailers alike.

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WOMEN ARE LEADING THE FUTURE OF CAVA

In the traditionally male-dominated wine industry, women like Montserrat Mascaró have emerged as leaders, with Mascaró being the first woman in her family to run the Mascaró winery. Over the years, more women have entered winemaking, leading to a shift in gender roles within the industry. Organizations like Cava Women support women in leadership roles, while pioneers like Mascaró and others have embraced sustainable practices and encouraged young women to pursue careers in winemaking. Today, women are increasingly involved in all aspects of wine production in Spain, with female vineyard ownership and participation steadily growing.

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THE SCIENCE OF HEAT STRESS IN GRAPEVINES

Despite the lack of a daily shift and increasing heat stress in regions like North Texas, viticulture is advancing through resilience and adaptation. Grapevines face challenges from extreme temperature fluctuations, but research and progressive farming practices aim to enhance their survival. Strategies like using heat-tolerant grape varieties, regenerative farming, and innovations in plant breeding are helping vineyards cope with climate stress. Experts emphasize that climate resilience, rather than just climate change, is key to sustaining viticulture in the face of rising temperatures and unpredictable weather patterns.

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FRANCE PROPOSES €120M PLAN TO UPROOT VINES

France’s agriculture ministry has proposed a new €120m scheme to pay winemakers up to €4,000 per hectare to uproot vines, aiming to reduce the country's wine surplus. With global wine production outstripping demand by 10% in 2023, French producers are facing falling prices and economic pressure. The plan seeks to cut oversupply by removing up to 30,000 hectares of vineyards, with replanting prohibited until 2029. This move follows shifting consumer habits, with wine consumption in France declining significantly, and exports also dropping due to global market challenges and the war in Ukraine.

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WINE IN HISTORY: DEATH BY WINE

Stuart Walton explores historical and cultural figures who met their demise through wine, from Alexander the Great to fictional characters like Vizzini in The Princess Bride. Alexander the Great's death in 323 BC is speculated to have been caused by poisoned wine or alcohol withdrawal after one of his drinking bouts, though the exact cause remains unknown. Walton also highlights other famous deaths, such as Socrates’ ingestion of hemlock-infused wine and the apocryphal tale of George Plantagenet, who allegedly chose to be drowned in a vat of wine. Throughout history, wine has often played a dramatic role in tales of death.

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WINE REGION OF THE WEEK: VALAIS, SWITZERLAND

The Valais is Switzerland's largest wine region, producing about a third of the country's wine. It spans the southeast-facing slopes of the Rhône River valley between Leuk and Fully, with vineyards often located on steep terraces. Covering around 4,800 hectares, the region benefits from a dramatic terroir, sheltered by alpine peaks. The fohn wind creates a warm, dry climate despite the high altitude, allowing vines to thrive between 460 and 760 meters above sea level. The lower valley areas are more fertile and often used for fruit production, industry, and urban development.

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GRAPE OF THE WEEK: CHASSELAS

Chasselas is Switzerland's most important and widely planted white grape variety, particularly common in the Vaud region. It ripens early, making it suitable for the cool alpine climate. While its reputation outside Switzerland is modest, often due to its potential for overproduction leading to neutral wines, the best examples are complex, with fruity, floral, and mineral notes, good acidity, and the ability to age well, developing honeyed and nutty flavors

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